We've Settled in Just Enough for Champagne

Picture it.

We lived in a house with pine-slat floors, high ceilings, light gushing from every window to fill the inside with warm light, without too much heat. In one room my yellow and floral duvet cover brightened the bed, while my various clothes hung in an open closet along one wall. There was a double door that swung open to a deck and private garden area. In the living room a multi-colored silk braid rug covered the pine slat floor surrounded by walls covered in books, and a black leather sofa (I way too much like black leather) plus chaise lounge welcomed guests to relax. In another room, the ten year old threw her things everywhere, papers covered every used-to-be-visible inch of the floor, and a cockatiel called for kisses! kisses! Okay, actually, let's ignore that room. Except for the bird. kisses! kisses! isn't that lovely?

There was a private back garden, a grassy yard, an apple tree in the back, a juniper, and a birch in the front. The kitchen was enormous, the bathroom had a claw-foot bathtub, and plenty of light. It was a wonderful home. I loved living in Flagstaff (once I got accustomed, which, when moving admittedly takes a while).

Remember how I mentioned all that change that's gone on since Spring? Well, truth is, we've moved. We've moved a long long way away. I've accepted a one-year dissertation writing fellowship at an ivy league college in the Northeast United States. It's unreal, really. After spending 2002 -- present as a single mom, doing full-time coursework, and also working, I now have a year where I am simply a single mom, and finishing my dissertation?

HOW THE HELL DID THAT HAPPEN?!!!

Not only that, our housing is included as part of the package. I get my own office, a one-bedroom apartment, and a stipend to live on. Wait. WHAT?!! A one bedroom apartment?!!

Yes, remember that picture I was describing above about our idyllic house in Flagstaff? We no longer have that house. Today we live in a one-bedroom apartment with high ceiling, industrial carpeted floor, stand-up-shower bathroom. We have our own oven and stove, our own sink, our own refrigerator, and no rent to pay. I am unendingly grateful. (See how by listing all the things we have I am SHOWING that I am grateful? Honestly, I am. We could have to use the stove that is out in the common room area of the rest of the house. We would have, in that case, a stove to use, so I would still be grateful. But I like so much better that we have our own stove in our own apartment.) I honestly feel incredibly lucky.

It's hard to imagine, really, that I've fallen into a situation where someone is giving me free housing. I can't say enough about what this means to me; what it means to have the opportunity for less obligation, more support, fewer expenses. As a single mom trying to finish graduate school THIS IS HUGE. The truth is that whole "2002 -- present" thing has been really intense. I've had more to do than any of my friends have been able to imagine getting done that whole time. They repeatedly tell me, "I don't know how you do it." The truth is, I haven't known either. I tend to avoid thinking about it, and instead just focus on getting it done.

I mentioned the kid, right? Well, we're living together in a one-bedroom apartment. We talked and she decided she wanted the living room. Really. SHE decided. So, we've been converting the space into her version of a dream-though-in-a-living-room-without-the-frickin'-paper-catastrophe-everywhere bedroom. It's been its own stressful situation, but we're doing pretty well with it.

Now that we're finally settling in well enough, I decided to make a dinner that would adequately capture the reality of our situation--incredible blessings within subtle constraint. What combination would celebrate the reality of free housing in a place a little too small for me and an almost-eleven-but-still-ten, ten year old?

Voila!

Four cheese--Monterey Jack, Cheddar, Queso Quesadilla, and Asedero--grilled cheese sandwich on seed and carrot bread

with Gosset Brut Grand Rose Champagne

(She didn't get champagne. She asked for soy milk instead.)

Rules for pairing wine with food (they are few):

(1) always go drink, eat, drink. That is, you taste the wine, THEN eat the food.
(2) pay attention: you're drinking AND eating--frickin' enjoy it!

That's it! Those are honestly all the rules! There are other guidelines that wine-foodies will tell you about what foods tend to go well with what wines. And those GUIDELINES can be helpful. But they are not strict, cut from the cloth RULES. When it comes right down to it THEY ARE ONLY GUIDELINES. Your job, as I said, is frickin' enjoy it. And part of the best way to do that is to try something unexpected, unpredicatble, and so, possibly fantastic. So, here I am trying a grilled cheese sandwich (admittedly FOUR cheese on a seed and carrot bread) with champagne brut rose.

jaunty bubbles; a golden, slightly caramel color; strong, bright, weighty nose; heavy flavor--a touch of burnt caramel, light apple, touch of heat at the tip of the tongue, with a hint of ginger. intense, but lively. strong flavors, that are fresh on the palate (and the gut). medium weight.

actually goes great with the grilled cheese sandwich. the sandwich tones down some of the intensity and heavy flavors of the champagne, bringing out more of the fruit, while retaining a touch of spice. i think i feel fall coming on.

Champagne Couture

Chartogne-Taillet grows older vines. It is a house that keeps the grapes to produce their own champagne in small quantity. The processes of Chartogne-Taillet are largely biodynamic. Though the grower-vintner has not entirely converted his grounds. The family has been located on their grounds since the early 1600's.

When the grower is interviewed, he describes his vines as living in two different environments. His family, the Chartognes, have succeeded in growing their vine roots down to 20 meters and more. His vines, then, grow in the soft topsoil, as well as the dense chalk underground. He says the combination of depths bring a rich fullness in the grape, combined with a true minerality of flavors. In this way, his wines are known to go with most meals.

1. Chartogne-Taillet Brut Cuvee Ste Anne

full in the mouth. very subtle apple fruit taste. light acidity. very subtle up front flavor. quickly moves to strong ginger taste. ginger after bite. slight lemon mineral taste. very subtle nutty flavor.

light effervescent nose. luscious golden honey color. strong but effervescent bubbles. creamy in the mouth.

incredible champagne. would drink and enjoy again. would stand up well to chicken. or vegetable dinner with butter notes. not inexpensive, but good quality for its price.

I've been watching the recent fashion shows, though I haven't admitted it here till now. There is a strong parallel between how we might describe champagne, and how we might distinguish between different levels of quality in fashion. It strikes me one would want a good strong, slightly sharp champagne to pair with any collection. A voice in the wine strong enough to hold up to any designers' aesthetic.

But, thinking of what the wine deserves, a champagne like Chartogne would carry a longer standing house with sophisticated aesthetics. We have not yet this season seen the shows of Paris. The most deserving lines of this description--long standing and sophisticated both--arise from there. In Paris, the fashion houses have roots with depths at two environments--long standing couture developed now by contemporary, forward thinking designers.

2. Gaston Chiquet Tradition Brut

notes of apple. taste of lemon. very slight touch of ginger. very slight taste of brioche--that slightly buttered bread taste.

medium acidity, slightly drying of the mouth. very slight bitter bite. bright, subtle, slightly floral scent. smooth, disappearing bubbles. very bright, rich caramel golden color.

pleasant, and quite drinkable. would be exquisite with triple cream cheese. of course. could stand up to bolder foods, and fresh sea flavored dishes.

Both of these are champagnes known as grower-producer wines. That is, the grapes are grown to become the champagne we drink, produced under the same name as the growers themselves. They are produced on smaller vineyards for the sake of character, and uniqueness. They are the couture of champagne. Whereas the bigger champagne houses, known quickly by name, are the wines' ready to wear.

Gaston Chiquet has grown on their land since the mid-1700's. Interestingly, the grower-owner did not begin to craft his own wines until the early-mid 1900's. Still, the current generation focuses on balancing tradition with contemporary techniques.

These are not wines of current fashion. These are wines with long standing voice, and unique flavor grown in long standing, well managed ground.

Champagne Villages and Far Away Thoughts

The story of champagne is told by its village. The wines are classified this way. Other wines of France are understood by district, and then chateau. Champagne is a district, distinct by village. To claim a champagne is Grand Cru is to say its village has the highest ranking; only a small percentage receives such a mark. Premier Cru is ranked next.

Verzenay is a commune of Northeastern France included among those in the Grand Cru rating. It is a village set on a hillside, with forest bordering its area. It is a village steeped in history, having been largely destroyed by combat in World War II, but still it contains a centuries old mill, and a centuries old lighthouse, and church.

Its vines carry a deep reputation, among the best in Champagne.

1. Pehu Simonet Brut Selection Grand Cru, from Verzenay

The winter has come together, finally, to find me lighter hearted, and happy; feeling more grounded, but with fancy feet. Still, this weekend finds it snowing, and with the weather I feel frustration.

It occurs to me that I have never been one to drink alone. The pleasures of such flavor have seemed a community activity to me. But more recently, with the desperate snow of this year, I found myself willing to taste champagne at home on my own. The brightness of the beverage is a way to revel in the memories of friends I share such activity with. It is a bottling of joy.

Reminds me of drinking apple pie with a thin sliced side of French brie. Acidic, but well-balanced. It dries the mouth, but doesn't pull the enamel off your teeth, as strongly acidic wines can do. A touch of ginger, like a bite in the mouth. Full flavors. Very slight after taste of honey.

Bright in the mouth. Highly mineral flavors. Crisp, firm bubbles. Very full, unique nose. Scents of moldy cheese and baked apple. Sweet and sharp smelling both. Bright golden color.

The information I read about Verzenay mentions the idea of taking a champagne tour. I am lost in thoughts of walks through vineyards, examination of grapes, tastings from barrels not yet ready for production, and others mixed to sell. I want to see them remove the yeast from the neck of the bottle, its explosion of juice about the floor as they take this volatile step in the production of such fantastic beverage.

But also, champagne makes me think of community, joy, and friendship. In tasting this glass, I think of my sister. I think of my friends that I drink this with. It occurs to me, I will write Kate to see if she will meet me somewhere for a tour of whatever. Perhaps we will just sit in a hotel somewhere and share a bottle of champagne dressed up in finery.

Next month I travel to Alaska to again taste wines with my sister. This time, however, we will be focusing on red wines, and whites that pair well with various foods. We will honestly be taking a class. An odd mix, the class she's found--how to make gourmet Caesar salad, and wine tastings. Odd, but it sounds like an exquisite time, including a multi-course meal, each course paired with wine.

For moments I am transported away from the snow, even as the places I think of are full of mountains.

Tigers, Champagne, and the Shock of Ammonia and Wine

It is snowing again. Though only lightly the whole town is a bit edgy when it falls. We were buried for more than a week, just recently, after having been buried for almost a week earlier in the season as well. Now people are ready for it to stop. They tell us it'll snow shower all week, the side effects of the record storms affecting the Eastern coast of the continent.

The ten-year old is at drum lessons. I want to visit with a friend, so I stop to taste champagne with one, and listen to music. It is a slow paced day. We chat.

I'm excited to taste the Jean Vesselle. It's supposed to be a wonderful champagne, and a respected winery. The daughter of Vesselle is now carrying on his tradition and is considered to do so in great respect, but also an interesting manner. They produce a range of well-regarded champagnes. Their brut reserve is one I have not tasted. It is mostly pinot noir, with some chardonnay. They mostly grow pinot noir on their property.

1. Jean Vesselle Brut Reserve

The color is lovely. A slightly pink-tinged gold in the glass. Smooth, consistent bubbles, foamy in the mouth. Light, well-balanced flavors. Lemon and ginger present. Tart, and a bit crisp. Just a hint of vanilla.

Pairs brilliantly with triple cream cheese, the classic pairing for champagne --brings out the tender sweetness of the cheese, and the elegance of the wine. Would suit well any lighter flavored foods. It would pair flexibly. I like this champagne.

The two of us are talking as I drink my flute of champagne.

We are both tired, we agree. Things are going well enough. But we're tired. He admits too that he wonders if something is about to go 'wrong.' The last years have worked that way for him, he says.

I end up ordering a sampler of French cheeses. The triple cream is brilliant with the champagne. It is my favorite.

I am tasting a goat cheese from the Loire Valley. The smell is ripe, slightly sour, and pungent. I take a taste. It is shocking. The ammonia flavors are so strong it is almost difficult to eat. My friend gives me a taste of Sauvignon Blanc to drink with the cheese--this is its natural pairing. The wine makes the ammonia flavors even more intense. I turn my head, and close my eyes trying to swallow. He nods, and says he can't eat it either. "How would you describe it?" I ask. I've never been partial to sauvignon blanc, though I try to be fair to a grape knowing it can be interesting for what it is in the hands of the right grower, and wine maker.

"The classic response, to be honest, is 'cat pee.'" He answers. This is the flavor I don't like in such a wine. The perfect description. Unfortunately, it's true. Still, this is a flavor many appreciate.

I move on to the next cheese, a french blue. He pours me a taste of something red but I missed looking at the bottle, still trying to rinse the flavor of the goat from my mouth.

I taste the blue cheese. It is a mild blue, wonderfully smooth. A lovely flavor. I taste the red beverage with it. It is exquisite. "What is this?!" I ask. "The combination is like eating candy and cake at the same time." It is not sweet, exactly. It is simply rich, fully flavored, and smooth. The cheese tastes brighter, more creamy with the beverage.

"A blue and a tawny," he responds. "The classic pairing." He'd poured me some tawny port. Wonderful.

2. Rene Geoffroy Brut Rose

I have stopped on the cheese now. Ready just to taste a brut rose champagne.

This vineyard is one of the older ones in its area. It has been established since the 17th century, and the family that runs it speaks as if they have great reverence for the land itself. They speak of trying to learn the land, and respecting the land. It is alive in their language. They speak of it like a person with unique characteristics, and its own demands. They grow their vines among ground cover plants, and use organic fertilizers. Their way to give to the soil, they explain.

A rich, pink color, almost touched by the orange-toned colors of peach. Soft bubbles, though it pours foamy, the bubbles barely make it to the mouth. Clear rose flavor. Light lemon in the mouth. A metallic touch. It has a floral nose, and a slight floral fragrance in the front of the mouth as well. The body of the wine carries with it fruit flavors. A light cherry taste, but dry in its fruit. There is no sweetness in this flavor. It is a gentle, almost odd taste. Well-balanced in its range of flavors.

People that have written on this wine have compared it to music, and the vinters work on the land and the juice as that of a composer. A composer of flavors, and aesthetic elements. I like the idea of champagne as a composition. A musical performance is a range of sensations, and experience. Not just one of sound. Champagne too is an experience not only of flavor, or scent. It is broader, more encompassing than this. Just like a composition, this glass tells a story.

Not every glass is a story we want told to us.

My friend mentions it is Valentine's Day coming up. He speaks of it in order to be cynical and make jokes of what not to do. I respond. I am ignoring the holiday of red and pink this year, I explain. That same day is the beginning of the lunar new year, or Chinese New Year. It is going to be the year of the tiger. I am a tiger. For this day I am ready.

Champagne in the All Day Night of Alaska, Continued III

I am in love with pinot meunier. It is a lovely, unusual grape that produces vibrantly colored and flavored wine. It tastes of simultaneously sophisticated, and playful delish life. What better combination than being quite grown up and fully capable of enjoying yourself?

My friend is a partner and the manager of the local, best wine venue. He occasionally invites me to taste new, wonderful wines, and as I taste he educates me on the history of the beverage we are trying. This is how I discovered pinot meunier on its own.

One of the three champagne making grapes, it is uncommon to discover a wine made of pinot meunier on its own. For the holiday, I have brought two to share as a gift with my sister and her partner. He has shared in wine tasting with us before; last year we traveled to Willamette Valley for her 40th birthday.

The Eyrie Vineyards Limited Bottling (Still) Pinot Meunier

It is significant to think, wine making in the United States was still in its infancy as recently as the 1970's. If that is true, we must simply accept that there is a youthful, less developed aspect to some of the flavors produced here than in other, longer standing, longer producing areas. Still, there is a boldness in U.S. wine making that, for that, can be admired.

Pinot Meunier is not a wine to speak of in terms of boldness. I have had enough champagne by now that I want to drink it not only for the sake of the joy bottled up in green glass with its flavors. I want to drink it too for the education it offers. Tasting wines that are only representative of champagne's single-grapes is a way to learn something of champagne's complex story.

Still, it is a scandal to list here an American wine.

Tastes of rhubarb. I feel like I may be drinking pie, and I am so happy. I can't help but be happy, drinking this wine. It is dry, and crisp in the mouth. This is a wine to be had with mushrooms, with earthy, wintery food, with the wild game of Alaska. Or, a wine to be drunk lite, and pleasant with a smile across the face. There is a slight, musky flavor to this wine I can recognize from champagnes I have had, though what we are drinking now is a still wine. Do not mistake my use of the word "musky" there is everything light and wonderful in this wine.


12. Egly-Ouriet Brut "Les Vignes de Vrigny" Pinot Meunier Champagne

It is an unusual gift to be able to drink Egly-Ouriet, a champagne produced with only the pinot meunier grape. A rare treasure indeed. The wine is hard to find in the United States, but I have a friend...

Beautiful. The best quality for this price point so far. Incredibly balanced flavor. It is a single grape champagne, and yet so full of sophisticated flavors. A lovely, rustic, earthy, wooded range of flavors. My favorite champagne.

This grape has nothing if not body. Slightly acid, without being sweet. Dry. There is substance to this wine.

We drank the Egly-Ouriet on its own. But then after a flute, or two, we began to eat a duck, endive, puff pastry tart with it. I found the recipe for this online and sent it to my sister. She made it to welcome me home. She is lovely.

Pinot Meunier is actually one of the most widely planted grapes in France. It more reliably buds and grows than its cousin, Pinot Noir. But its reputation is young and there are still many growers that do not acknowledge their dependence on it. Still, pinot meunier is beginning to show itself through talk in the industry. More have begun to speak of it. I am in love with this grape.

14. Bollinger Special Cuvee

"Bolly, Eddy?!"

Solid, drinkable champagne. Solid traditional champagne style. This is a pinot noir heavy champagne, balanced by chardonnay. There is no pinot meunier here. Pinot noir brings richness and intensity to the wine. The chardonnay lengthens, and leans the flavors. Best to drink quite cold. Not my favorite. But a solid, drinkable wine.

The Absolutely Fabulous ladies drink this or Veuve Cliquot. What a surprising contrast in flavors between them.

Drinking Bubbles Alone Because It Is Snowing

Varnier-Fanniere Brut Champagne Grand Cru

"I love that. I could drink it everyday with breakfast."

Flavors of ginger. Light on the bread. Foam and crisp in the mouth. Makes me crave an omelet with brie and spinich inside. It would balance well the flavors with this. It tastes of breakfast.

This is a firm blanc de blanc. It asks for teeth to chew on the flavors a bit. The sharp brightness of the chardonnay, of course, with the slight stem-like woody flavor of it too. But it is a well-balanced blanc de blanc, leaning into hints of cheese with ginger and pear.

The flavors stay long in the mouth. I could even call it sinewy, which surprises me. But the strong, long, lean, stick-to-your-mouth of it makes sense of this. I will drink this again.

I am drinking this champagne alone. But this is a wine to make sense of drinking alone. Something I've never been inclined towards. But champagne is for tasting, and for putting sparks in your mood. This champagne is sharp in a way that quickens the peace of alonetime, if you must have it. Though it could lead towards humor with the right drinking partner. I would, to be honest, prefer to drink this with good, laughable stories mixed alongside. It reminds me that in this town I am a little lonely. Though we have started making friends.

My sister is in Alaska. I am in Arizona. She is the first I began a tradition of drinking champagne with, though since I have introduced the habit into friendship with others. The snow is falling outside. She had mentioned snow there last night. We have had so much snow here this winter, but all so sudden and quick, rather than steady over months, that it makes me sardonic and edgy when it falls. The bubbles are my solution to find a sense of calm.

Champagne in the All Day Night of Alaska, Continued II

The Sorbee region is unusual in its approach towards wine. The vines are grown among trees, thus changing the climate the grapes develop in dramatically from vines grown in open air. It is a young region. Plants average 35 years of age in Sorbee. The Vouette vineyard is a newer facility with vines ranging closer to 20 years. The wine maker only began his work in 2001, but he is already a cult figure in Champagne production. His facility is not only organic, but also bio-dynamic, the high level of chic in environmentally aware food production.

Melanie has read about the region recently. She is telling me what she knows about the grapes, and is excited to share a tasting set with me. Vouette has three tiers in their champagne quality. She has secured a bottle of each.

9. Vouette et Sorbee Fidele Blanc de Noir Extra Brut

We return again to a blanc de noir, all pinot noir. I am curious how the flavor will compare since I did not enjoy the last one.

The flavor is sweet and creamy. The wine is darker, a honey color. It tastes of peach, tart apples, and light oak flavor. There is sugar in the glass. In the mouth it tastes almost like candy, and the wine taste green, like it is still a bit too young. There is more acid in the texture than the last blanc de noir. For a base level champagne, it is interesting, but it is too candy for my liking. I would not buy it again.

Sometimes it is as if you can taste the gears the wine's been through. Like it tastes manufactured. Something about this wine calls such images to mind. Thoughts of how a wine's been made should come after the taste has moved through your mouth. The flavors should open your attention, and hold you in it for the moment. Wine that makes you think of machines on a hillside is cultivating the wrong response.

Still, the story of this wine makes me want to learn more about it. I begin to study the history and climate of the vineyard.

Gautherot, the maker of Vouette champagne, is known for wanting to make small production wines that are good, though they will not please everyone. He wants to develop a wine of individuality, he says, rather than following an obvious form. He wants people to drink his wines for their quality flavor. He does not expect everyone to like his wines. He believes organic and bio-dynamic production are what supports the quality of his wine by increasing the health of the terroir, the plant, the grape, the wine.

Reading about his process, we are transported. His soil is full of other plants beside the grapes. Animals visit his grounds. Bugs reside in it. The earth is rich.

The first bottle was disappointing. Still, it is a base-level champagne. The way he describes his process, his passionate interest in the flavors... we taste the second bottle.

10. Vouette et Sorbee Blanc d'Argile Extra-Brut

The Blanc d'Argile is a step up from the Fidele in flavor and quality. It is a blanc de blanc, all chardonnay. It is a very foamy bubbley champagne. The wine is a lighter color than the previous. There is less candy flavor, and it generally has a crisper, more subtle flavor.

We ate it with a roasted vegetable on ciabatta sandwich. The food helped balance the flavors of the wine. This is a wine to stand up to such flavors.

I begin to suspect I have less draw to the blanc de noir style champagnes, though I would never presume to say I do not like them, when I have tasted so few, and any grape, of course, can develop its own complexity.

Champagne is known for being acidic. The process in which it is made, the grapes, simply does this to the juice. It is also known for growing in dry, limestone soils. The ground is most often bare of insects, other plants, or animals.

With biodynamic production, Gautherot's earth is thick with life. His vines are known for showing strength compared to their neighbor's vines. He keeps fruit trees on the grounds, and two cows, and chickens. He lives off these things, but also, they add to the richness of the grounds in which his vines grow, and to the yeast complexity in which his wine is produced. He speaks as though he cherishes this life.

The area in which his vineyard resides is remote as well. The vineyard's rich ground is his project. His vines grow in the Champagne region, but away from the heart of it. He prides his flavors in bearing this mark as well.

11. Saignee de Sorbee Extra-Brut Rose

I have a fondness for sparkling rose's. A still rose holds my attention as well. But I appreciate the way the bubbles pierce through the thick almost-syrup of the rose juice, and lighten the sometimes metallic taste of the still rose. The combination of flavor and bubble brighten the wine in the mouth. The rose champagne has a sparkle unique from a standard white champagne. It is the surprise of champagne I enjoy.

Nicely balanced brut rose. No candy taste. This level of Vouette's champagne is very pleasant. The wine works well on its own. It does not need food for balance as the first two do. This wine would be good with oysters.

This rose is known for being one of the most original wines from Champagne. It tastes of its earth--mineral rich and almost pungent in its flavors. The two offer themselves in balance.

The combination of flavors in the rose fulfills its makers goal of individuality. This is my favorite of the three. It makes me want to learn more about its soil.

Champagne in the All Day Night of Alaska, Continued

As you may recall, my sister and I tasted a number of champagnes over the December holiday. In a previous post I gave champagne notes for the first four. Following are notes for the next four we drank.


5. Pierre Gimonnet & Fils, Blanc de blanc

I've just gotten released from jury duty. They kept me for two days of questioning. The first day the state prosecutor demanded to know about any interaction any of us had had with the cops. The second day, the defense asked philosophical questions about the legal system, and ideas of guilt and innocence. I am the wrong person to ask such questions.

Our mom arrives, ready to taste the champagne with us. She's in a rush between making our dad his lunch, and running off to town to run some errands.

My sister had been sure I'd be chosen for the jury.

Thomas Keller, from the French Laundry serves Pierre Gimonnet as his house champagne. This is a good, straightforward choice for such things. An accessible, balanced champagne. Creamy, with a sharp finish. Good for opening up the palette before a meal.

There's a new bakery in Anchorage with good, solid breads, and interesting sandwiches. We drink the champagne to prepare for this --a turkey, green apple, light chutney, and white cheese sandwich on ciabatta. The blanc de blanc serves these flavors well.

We've had ice fog hovering over town for days, with weather too cold for going outside, and snow too slow to ski. We can't see the mountains.

I explain to both of them the kinds of questions we were asked. I tell them I talked too much. Everyone the lawyers kept had straightforward answers. Mine were all long, and too complicated. My mom is proud. It's proof of something, though she doesn't say what, that I escaped the jury process.

Finishing her flute of wine, Mom rushes off. It's time to finish errands.

6. Krug Grande Cuvee

We sisters go in the other room and watch Absolutely Fabulous. I haven't seen much of it, and it's Melanie's favorite. We'd planned months ago to watch it together.

The women on screen are drinking "Bolly, Eddy?" We're laughing. We've got some Bollinger we plan to drink with the Ab-Fab ladies later in the visit, but right now we're not expecting any guests so we're drinking the Krug now to enjoy it for ourselves.

Strong cheesy, bready nose. Clean taste and finish. Full and round flavors. Very drinkable. Could handle a broad range of foods from sweeter, to fatty. Would be good for the foods that are classically served with dry, acidic white wine, like oysters. The flavors are strong enough, it might even stand up to a steak.

Champagne is classically made with a mix of three grapes--chardonnay, pinot noir, pinot meunier. Krug admits to having the highest proportion of Pinot Meunier of any of the houses. It showcases a well-balanced taste of all three grapes--you can find them each in your mouth. Pinot meunier is thought to be too delicate a grape to age very well, so champagne houses don't admit to how much they use in their blend so that people will buy it even vintage. Krug has proven to age well. This makes it seem perhaps pinot meunier actually ages fine too.

The Veuve Cliquot Grande Dame is a fuller, rounder flavor, more fruity, and less crisp than the Krug. But the Krug is lovely.

The episode has finished. We've moved back into the other room, where we're drinking the Krug with St Andre Triple Cream, and Caars Whole Wheat Crackers. The tastes are perfect together. We turn on classic Dolly Parton. Her voice is strong, and smooth, singing about a love that will never leave her, though she is leaving him.

7. Marc Hebrart Premier Cru

The snow has started to fall outside.

Hebrart is considered a new and interesting producer. He grows mostly pinot noir, and some chardonnay, with a style considered similar to Gimonnet. His champagne combines the two grapes, without the pinot meunier.

Flavors of bread, with a bite, and a touch of sweet. Creamy and tart with fine bubbles. A smooth texture in the mouth. Rather sharp and acidic. More so than the Gimonnet.

It is quiet outside with the snow falling. The fog has finally lifted. With fresh snow the temperature has risen as well. The evergreen trees are dark, but lit by white atop their branches.

8. Inflorescence Blanc de Noirs

I am excited to try champagnes made from each of the three types of grapes, in varying combinations. There is plenty of blanc de blanc (just chardonnay) out there. But rarely do you see straight pinot meunier, and not very often just blanc de noirs (pinot noir). We have been looking forward to this wine.

Very crisp, though not biting. Light apple flavors. Acidic in the mouth. Not very sophisticated flavor, but drinkable. Would drink again, but not buy again. The flavors would suit well for omelettes.

Melanie's partner and son return tomorrow. It will be good to see them both. Before they get back, it's time to enjoy some more "Bolly, Eddy?" With the snow falling we go back to spend sometime with the Ab-Fab ladies. They are being awful, and we're laughing.

Champagne in the All Day Night of Alaska

Sister and I (she's on the right) ready to drink champagne

In the December holiday the ten-year old and I flew to Alaska to have time with family. Days stretch to about 4 hours in the heart of winter. The rest of the time it's dark. It's well below zero and the city is covered in ice fog that makes the air biting, and the snow slow. We stay inside. Instead, we spend most of the trip at my sister's house drinking champagne. The ten year old doesn't drink. She stays downstairs hanging with her cousin. My sister and I sit upstairs drinking champagne. In the 12 days spent there, we manage to taste 14 champagnes, and a couple of cavas. (Just to be clear: we're not drunks. we're determined.)

Following are some of the ridiculous notes I made along the way. Today I'll post notes for the first four we tasted, then continue with them over the next few weeks.

1. Vilmart & Cie Grand Cellier Premier Cru

"I wish I had more language to describe" [moving the champagne about in her mouth]. She whispers. "Like a little translator? You just blow into it and across the screen it types out what you think." I say. She doesn't respond. She's still tasting and thinking about the champagne in her mouth.

Sharp bubbles. Mild apple and pear flavors. Mild brie flavors. Light oak--can taste the chardonnay. Pleasantly drinkable. Not a whole lot of complexity, compared to the Grand Dame, but that's an unfair comparison.

Somehow we've started talking about knee high striped socks, with short-shorts, or short skirts. Neither of us are inclined anymore to wear such things. It's not clear to me I ever was.

2. Pierre Peters Mesnil Blanc de Blanc

Our first guest arrives. We are drinking the Pierre Peters. It's taste is sharp in the mouth. My sister and I are both saying we don't know that we'll buy it again, though it would be good for brunch with eggs and French cheese. Our guest sits for a while, then begins to tell us about traveling in her late teens and twenties. She took a lot of road trips around the United States.

Less sophisticated range of flavors than the Vilmart. This is not surprising since it is a blanc-de-blanc. The Vilmart hosts all three grapes used for producing champagne--chardonnay, pinot noir, and pinot meunier. A blanc de blanc only offers the chardonnay. An oaky bite at the front of the mouth. Very acidic. Needs a strong cheese, or omelette with strong cheese to help temper the sharpness of the wine.

They start telling me there is this man they both know that they think I should meet. I'm skeptical. I'm not interested in being set up with anyone. They keep telling me, no, no, it's not like that. He and I would just get along. I tell them no again. They try one more time, and finally I relent. Fine, call him, I say. They call him. He says he'll come over in an hour. Finally, to distract them from it I ask our guest about her roadtrips.

3. La Grande Dame Veuve Cliquot (Limited Pucci Edition) 1996

She drove through a reservation in the American West at Halloween one year. There were bonfires everywhere, she said. Bonfires in the dark, and she was driving all alone.

Then one summer she was crossing the south, again, all alone. She passed through Memphis when an enormous thunder storm took up. Crossing into Arkansas, heading west, the sky was blacker than black. The rain would fall so hard she'd be scared. She'd just keep driving.

Conversation stops.

Fruit with cream and bread. Lots of nose. Amazing burst of flavors. Full and round. Don't drink this with food so you can appreciate it more. Could have drunk this with everything, or anything.

We are transfixed.

Another guest arrives. They all know each other. I grew up with the new guest. The first one I've only met a couple of times before, though we get along, and I enjoy her company. The new guest enjoys travel too. But hers has been based more in flying to new places in other parts of the world she's never been before. A couple years ago she went to Korea. There, she tells us, karaoke is huge. There is karaoke everywhere. Even in the taxi cabs. We're laughing. Can you imagine the job of a taxi driver in a place where everyone is always singing?

4. Andre Jacquart Mesnil Premier Cru Blanc de Blanc

The doorbell rings. I answer the door so my sister won't have to go downstairs. It's the man they've called to come over and meet me. We go upstairs. He sits next to his friend, my sister. My sister's telling stories about having lived in Manhattan. We realize we're hungry. The last blanc de blanc begged for French cheese so we decide we'll oblige this one. She makes us spinich and brie omelettes.

Amazingly complex, even for a single grape champagne. Didn't only have the brightness of chardonnay. More in the mouth. Would drink again. Drinkable on its own. Good with soft cheese.

He's quiet but listens to what others are saying. He offers comments when he has something to say. He tastes the champagne but isn't that into drinking in general. Still, he appreciates trying things. I still don't want to be set up with anyone. But even so, he's interesting.

How to Spend the Summer

Summers I spend in cities much to hot for red wine--Toronto, Montreal, Memphis, among others. Instead, when I'm ready for a glass of wine, I spend my summers drinking rose. A couple of posts ago I mentioned my now favorite wine blog. I'll leave it to her to do a fine-tuned analysis of our favorite beverages. But I'll be flying to Montreal this weekend, where I'll no doubt drink Rose, since I've gotten a couple of my friends there hooked on it too.

A few of you like to ask for outfit recommendations to go appropriately with food and drink. Rose is definitely about being casually, comfortably chic in the heat, so I recommend wearing loose, light fabric and smile-filled thirst.

This year I've taken to sparkling brut rose. Following are two of my favorites.

Going French--Bellefon Brut Rose Champagne
Nice tight bubbles, firm and focused flavor, creative fruit-filled blend, thus:

Appropriately paired with John Galliano, S09

Going American--Soter Brut Rose, Willamette Valley
Coppery-colored, fresh, full bubbles, with fruit and honey taste, and creamy feel, thus:

Perfectly paired with Jil Sander, S09

For good value (that is, tasty and affordable) still (not sparkling) rose:

Adelsheim Rose, Willamette Valley
Casual, perfumed, french-oak flavor with crisp-clean finish, thus:

Best paired with Bottega Veneta, S09